100th Anniversary of the First Ascent of Mount Alberta by Japanese Climbers
2025/7/28
On July 21, 1925, a party of Japanese climbers reached the summit of Mount Alberta (3,619 m) for the first time. Mount Alberta is located between Banff and Jasper, the fifth highest in Canadian Rockies and third highest in the Province of Alberta. At the time, Mount Alberta was the only mountain in the Canadian Rockies whose summit had yet been conquered.
The party arrived in Jasper by train from Vancouver, British Columbia and reached the summit at 7:35 p.m. on July 21st after struggling to climb near vertical walls. Local papers reported the party’s exploration of Colombia Icefield and successful climb of the Mount Alberta. A paper wrote “Mt. Alberta Scaled by Japanese. Virgin Peak of Rockies Falls to Oriental Alpinists”.
The climbing party consisted of six members—four from the Keio University Alpine Club, including expedition leader Yuko (Aritsune) Maki, and two from the Gakushuin University Mountaineering Club. With the support of three Swiss guides, they successfully reached the summit.
There, they built a cairn and left behind a written note marking their achievement, along with an ice axe gifted by Marquis Moritatsu Hosokawa, the 16th head of the former Hosokawa samurai clan of Kumamoto. This ice axe is now permanently placed at the Jasper Yellowhead Museum, and Archives in honour of the shared mountaineering heritage of Canada, Japan and United States.
July 21, 2025, marks the 100th anniversary of this historic ascent.
On July 17, a delegation from the Japanese Alpine Club arrived in Calgary. To commemorate the occasion—and with the hope of offering encouragement to Jasper, which was affected by wildfires last year—Consul General Wajima hosted a reception at the official residence. The event welcomed Canadian guests including Hon. Nathan Cooper, Speaker of the Alberta Legislative Assembly, and Hon. Mike Ellis, Deputy Premier of Alberta. Representatives from the Japanese Alpine Club also shared stories about the historic climb of Mount Alberta.
A centennial ceremony was held in Jasper on July 21, drawing many participants from the local community. Among the Japanese delegation was Ms. Junko Haga, daughter of Mr. Yukio Mita, one of the original climbers. In her remarks, she said:
“I am deeply moved by how people in Canada have continued to honor and celebrate this story of a Japanese ascent for a hundred years. I’m sure my father would be overjoyed in heaven.”
In celebration of the centennial, a new Japanese climbing team also attempted Mount Alberta and successfully summited the peak, safely descending on July 28.
The ice axe left at the summit during the 1925 expedition has an intriguing story of its own—from its placement on the peak to its eventual arrival at the museum. For more on this fascinating history, please refer to the column linked below. Also, don’t miss the special exhibition on the first ascent of Mount Alberta, currently on display at the Jasper Yellowhead Museum until early October.
https://www.calgary.ca.emb-japan.go.jp/itpr_en/11_000001_00768.html
https://www.calgary.ca.emb-japan.go.jp/itpr_en/11_000001_00798.html
Archive photos from the Jasper Yellowhead Museum
Details of the special exhibit in celebration of the centennial anniversary at the Jasper Yellowhead Museum and Archives, including the original ice axe
The party arrived in Jasper by train from Vancouver, British Columbia and reached the summit at 7:35 p.m. on July 21st after struggling to climb near vertical walls. Local papers reported the party’s exploration of Colombia Icefield and successful climb of the Mount Alberta. A paper wrote “Mt. Alberta Scaled by Japanese. Virgin Peak of Rockies Falls to Oriental Alpinists”.
The climbing party consisted of six members—four from the Keio University Alpine Club, including expedition leader Yuko (Aritsune) Maki, and two from the Gakushuin University Mountaineering Club. With the support of three Swiss guides, they successfully reached the summit.
There, they built a cairn and left behind a written note marking their achievement, along with an ice axe gifted by Marquis Moritatsu Hosokawa, the 16th head of the former Hosokawa samurai clan of Kumamoto. This ice axe is now permanently placed at the Jasper Yellowhead Museum, and Archives in honour of the shared mountaineering heritage of Canada, Japan and United States.
July 21, 2025, marks the 100th anniversary of this historic ascent.
On July 17, a delegation from the Japanese Alpine Club arrived in Calgary. To commemorate the occasion—and with the hope of offering encouragement to Jasper, which was affected by wildfires last year—Consul General Wajima hosted a reception at the official residence. The event welcomed Canadian guests including Hon. Nathan Cooper, Speaker of the Alberta Legislative Assembly, and Hon. Mike Ellis, Deputy Premier of Alberta. Representatives from the Japanese Alpine Club also shared stories about the historic climb of Mount Alberta.
A centennial ceremony was held in Jasper on July 21, drawing many participants from the local community. Among the Japanese delegation was Ms. Junko Haga, daughter of Mr. Yukio Mita, one of the original climbers. In her remarks, she said:
“I am deeply moved by how people in Canada have continued to honor and celebrate this story of a Japanese ascent for a hundred years. I’m sure my father would be overjoyed in heaven.”
In celebration of the centennial, a new Japanese climbing team also attempted Mount Alberta and successfully summited the peak, safely descending on July 28.
The ice axe left at the summit during the 1925 expedition has an intriguing story of its own—from its placement on the peak to its eventual arrival at the museum. For more on this fascinating history, please refer to the column linked below. Also, don’t miss the special exhibition on the first ascent of Mount Alberta, currently on display at the Jasper Yellowhead Museum until early October.
https://www.calgary.ca.emb-japan.go.jp/itpr_en/11_000001_00768.html
https://www.calgary.ca.emb-japan.go.jp/itpr_en/11_000001_00798.html
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| Remarks by Deputy Premier and Minister of Public Safety and Emergency Services Alberta, Mike Ellis |
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| Remarks by Minister Ric McIver, Speaker of the Legislative Assembly of Alberta |
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| Remarks by Japanese Alpine Club, Mr. Ichiro Arakawa |
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| Gift of the picture book “The Story of Mount Alberta” by Ms. Junko Haga |
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| Mrs. Junko Haga with her grandchildren, Shotaro Katsunuma and Chikako Haga during their visit to the Rocky Mountains |
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| Dignitaries and guests including Mayor of Jasper Richard Ireland and Alpine Club of Canada president Isabelle Daigneault for an outdoor reception |
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| Everyone gathered in front of the Mt. Alberta mural created by Hiroyasu Tsuri and Tyler Towes, as they sang the mountain song in both English and Japanese |
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| Members climbing Mt. Alberta in celebration of the centennial gathered in Jasper as everyone bid them good luck. They were successfully able to reach the summit |
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| Mrs. Junko Haga cuts the cake written “Mount Alberta 1925-2025" |
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| Mr. Warren Waxer gave insightful information on the history and journey of Mt. Alberta and the ice axe that was found at the summit left by the 6 original members |
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| Consul-General Wajima pictured alongside Mrs. Junko Haga, Mr. Ichiro Arakawa, and Mr. Kaneko and his wife. |
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